Melt the butter in a large frying pan, stir in onion and bacon or pancetta, and sauté until onion is translucent, then add chicken livers, orange zest and thyme leaves. Cook over a medium heat until livers are no longer pink on the outside. Season with salt and pepper and Moroccan seasoning, then add port, brandy and cream. Bring to a simmer, cover and remove from the heat. After the mixture has cooled for 10 minutes or so, place in a food processor and whizz until smooth, then add softened butter and whizz to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pack into jars or ramekins and press baking paper on top to prevent pâté drying out, or cover with a little melted clarified butter to form a seal. Refrigerate. Remove from refrigerator 20 minutes before serving. Serve with crisp toast triangles and fresh figs. SIMON SAYS If you want a super-smooth pâté, pass the mixture through a sieve before packing into jars.